Scots-Malaysian chef Julie Lin is the latest high-profile culinary character to take on a kitchen space at upmarket Edinburgh food hall, Bonnie & Wild.
Lin, who rose to foodie fame via the Scots-Malaysian Ga Ga food stall – then permanent kitchen & bar – in Glasgow, has since stepped away from that business while her media career has taken off, appearing regularly on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen, and publishing her first cookbook, ‘Sama Sama’.
Her return to a commercial kitchen comes with a new concept, Tacos Lah, which is said to explore the ‘unexpected connections between the cuisines of Malaysia and Mexico’.
The new menu reimagines Mexican street food through the lens of Lin’s Malaysian heritage,described as a natural evolution of her culinary journey which has drawn on her experience growing up between cultures.
“I’ve grown up with fusion cuisine all of my life,” said Lin. “Food makes me feel connected to a place. Despite Malaysia and Mexico being geographically miles apart, there are so many similarities in the way both countries approach flavour.
“The deep respect for dried chillies, acidity, smoke and punchy seasonings is incredibly inspiring as a chef.”
Rather than blending cuisines for novelty, she said that Tacos Lah sought to ‘uncover the natural threads’ that already exist between Malaysia and Mexico’s culinary histories.
The menu includes sambal pork tacos with pineapple salsa, slow-cooked lemongrass beef birria served with a spiced dipping broth, and a prawn tostada inspired by the flavours of prawn toast.
There are also playful touches, including salt-and-chilli potato smilies, proving that serious flavour and a sense of fun can coexist on the same plate.
“I’m deeply in love with my Malaysian roots, and this feels like a really exciting opportunity to explore the incredible range of ingredients found across Mexico and Malaysia and respectfully bring them together,” said Lin.
Bonnie & Wild occupies a footprint of 16,700sqft on Level 4 of the St James Quarter at the end of Edinburgh’s Princes St, with seating for almost 400 guests, and a host of independent food stalls and retailers, including Eusebi Bakery, Flùr New York Pizza Bar, Creel Caught by Gary Maclean, Salt & Chilli by Jimmy Lee, Chooks, El Perro Negro, Kochchi, Joelato, Leith Woks, Scottish deli Soup & Caboodle, illy Caffe, Chulo’s Stuffed Cookies and the Rarity Boutique Bottleshop.
Managing director Ryan Barrie said: “We’re so excited to have Julie Lin join us within Bonnie & Wild. Her Tacos Lah, celebrating Malaysian and Mexican cuisines, is simply brilliant.
“Julie’s presence is a fantastic new addition to the incredible line-up of award-winning chefs and entrepreneurs operating within our Scottish Marketplace.”
