After more than 14 years as an international specialist events chef, Barry Bryson is opening the doors to his first permanent restaurant this week, down on Edinburgh’s waterfront at the Shore in Leith.
‘Barry Fish’ promises to showcase the best fish and shellfish from Scotland, as well as dishes to suit non-fish eaters, plus ‘exceptional’ wines, cocktails, craft beer and Scottish cordials.
For those unfamiliar with the east coast vernacular, the ‘Barry’ in ‘Barry Fish’ is a play on the locally recognised word for ‘good’.
The new 34-cover restaurant and bar has been laid out so that diners can see directly into the open plan working kitchen from the pass, as well as out over the Water of Leith from the comfort of their seats.
Bryson built up his reputation via luxury brand menu collaborations on behalf of big corporate clients like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Aston Martin and Rolls Royce, alongside pop-up restaurants, events, and festivals.
Meanwhile, his private chef client list has included TV chef and author, Nigel Slater; Roland Mouret; and Alexis Burgess; as well as artists such as Tracy Emin and Anya Gallacio through his long term work with Edinburgh’s Jupiter Artland.
Barry has also cooked for the British Embassy in Uruguay.
Commenting on this week’s opening of his first permanent home, he said: “I’m genuinely thrilled to be opening Barry Fish. It was always about finding a site in Leith, but never did I imagine we would be opening in such an amazing location as the Shore.
“It feels surreal and of course the appropriate nerves are kicking in, but I cannot wait!
“I’ve had a few years to think about the style of cooking and restaurant concept that I might have one day, but you never really know if you will get there.
“For me, the wait has meant I have much clearer intentions and now I can’t wait to get cooking with Robbie and Tom, who will run the kitchen alongside me, as well our new restaurant manager, Manon.”
Although very much a fish-focused restaurant, Bryson stressed that his team will be creating dishes for everyone, including meat and vegetarian options.
“We’re working with some new suppliers at Barry Fish, showcasing season, farm, fishmongers and growers from Scotland and all across the UK.”
Suppliers include Welch Fishmonger at Newhaven in Edinburgh; Shaws Fine Meats in the Scottish Borders; and artisan wines from independent wine merchant, L’art Du Vin.
“Our ethos is simple,” said Bryson. “The best ingredients we can get, cooked with skill and passion in a welcoming and warm environment. There is no formality at Barry Fish, other than the love and respect that we have for what we do.”
The interior spaces at Barry Fish have all been designed by Barry’s husband Robin, along with their friend, Kay Bennet, which has helped the venue ‘feel so much more complete as a concept’.
“My suppliers, my team and the customers who have been on the journey with me have my sincerest gratitude. Barry Fish is an ongoing collaboration between me and them,” said Bryson.
“Barry Fish is designed for everyone. We are not a special occasion restaurant, but we do want to be a special restaurant. It’s about creating something that fits well with a community of diners – that’s who I am.”
Daytimes, the Low-Tide lunch and Big Snacks pre-theatre menus include Barry Fish sea trout pastrami and Loch Fyne oysters; Eyemouth crab; sea bream and sea bass ceviche; octopus; and kedgeree dishes.
The evening dinner menu includes shelled half lobster; whole sea bass or bream; and ‘The Big Pie’ made with beef cheek Bourguignon and pancetta.
Barry Fish is located at 62 Shore, Leith, on a stretch that is something of a foodie hotspot, as it is already home to the Michelin-starred The Kitchin by Tom Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart and Heron.
