Michael Leathley is the head chef at The Pierhouse Hotel and Seafood Restaurant in Port Appin. Sitting on the shores of Loch Linnhe, The Pierhouse has a focus on locally-sourced produce – particularly fresh seafood. It is the sister hotel of The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye. Both properties are owned by the Wee Hotel Company.
How long have you been in the industry?
I got my first taste of a proper kitchen on a work experience in Newcastle at 21 Queen Street in 1997 or ’98. Briefly interrupted, I went to study art, discovering I was a lot better cook than an artist.
What’s your career highlight so far?
The Pierhouse by far – it has felt like a great coming together for me. Working with Fiona (our general manager) and Gordon (founder of the Wee Hotel Company) has allowed me to put into practice ideas that have been stewing and fermenting for a long time.
How would you describe your restaurant and its food?
Unpretentious, a little classic and a little modern. I let the produce be itself, I try not to over-chef everything. Nice clean flavours. I keep looking back to classic dishes, not in a kitsch way, but a playful and comforting way.
Describe your team
We are quite a mix; ages range from mid-20s to mid-50s and we have a good split of men and women. The biggest thing has been to make sure the team is settled and looked after.
What’s your favourite Scottish ingredient?
Our oysters from Judith at Caledonian Oysters are amazing. I go and pick them up: they’re so fresh and meaty, like no other oyster.
How do you relax outside of work?
I’ve a young son so there’s not much time to relax! Time with him is great. We’ve taken to cooking together which is so much fun. I also read a lot – tends to be cookbooks, I’m a bit of a swot.
What makes a good chef?
It’s hard to pin down the skills needed as they are so wildly varied. You need to have a broad base. Get your cooking skills down. Work collaboratively and lead in the same way. It’s a team sport.
Is there any food you dislike?
Not really, I don’t think much of cucumbers and bananas, but then I like pickled cucumbers of all kinds, and bananas in chocolate desserts.
What’s your favourite wine?
It sounds bad for a chef but I’ve always preferred beer, not even craft beer or ale, just cold fizzy beer.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever eaten and where was it?
I tend not to remember whole meals. My Granddad’s smoked eel pate, kippers from North Shields Fish Quay, salt beef bagels with mustard and pickles at a bagel shop on Brick Lane, London. Having said all this, St John was a meal that, when I think back, still gets me excited about cooking.
Who would you invite for your ideal meal and where would you go?
Well, if it was chefs I’d say Raymond Blanc, Eric Ruppert, Dominique Crenn, Gabriela Hamilton. You’d have to have the Roux brothers and Marco Pierre White. Outside the chef world Brian Clough, Jarvis Cocker, Sparks, Bill Murray, PJ Harvey. I think the best meal for me would be with family and close friends, in a garden, burning something on a fire and watching the kids muck about.
